Smokey Mountains Tennessee and North Carolina 3500 kms return.
9 states and 1 province. Not one drop of rain the entire trip
Friday - 432 kms. Toronto to Kingsville, ON. Left my stiffling hot place at 9:30a.m. in my leather jacket ! Took # 3 out of Hamilton to Kingsville. Stopped in Iona for lunch. Got gas in Aylmer. This is rubbard country. Passed through Leamington where Heintz has its head office. The tourist booth in Leamington is a giant tomatoe. Arrived at the Century Kingsville Concert House about 5:30 - it was hot still. My Innkeepers were delightful! Mary and Marty. Walked up the street to Jack's for a pint. Then on to Vernon's were there was live music and the couple were very good ! Back to the B & B by 9:45 to slip into bed. The garden outside my room has gorgeous smells and many birds. Birds are very active about 4:30 A.M. ! ! .
Saturday 202 kms. Saturday - Marty made scrambled eggs with fresh ingredients from his yard. I took a quick walk on the old train track - now bike trail - that goes to Leamington. For the ferry into Pelee Island I chatted with Sandra, an avid cyclist and traveller, the entire way. She was staying on the Island. I went on to Sandusky - which has a few roller coasters and other rides right on the coast. Taking the ferry took about 4 hours, $44 and I had to tie the bike down. At customs at 1:40 America - land of big cars, big meals and the Baptist church. Lots of American flags in the cemetaries. The surplus and variety of candy/junk food is endless. Including snowballs which I resisted. No exit is refered to as no outlet . But the gas is almost half the price. Easily getting over 200 kms to a tank. I never switched to the reserve tank and always took less than $7 to fill. The sweet spot on the Honda is 90 kms. Headed south on # 4 until # 99 which was a great ride - very few people on it. Stopped for lunch at 2:30 and then picked up the interstate. The Burger King has sweet potatoe fries. Ohio recently changed the law to make helmets optional. Most riders were NOT wearing helmets. In Columbus when I was parking the bike I rode helmet free... Parking on the street is free after 10:00 pm. Found the Sheraton at Capital Square fairly quick. Thank goodness for sisters who get me great rates ! And brothers - who fixed every cable, every light, painted and tuned up the bike. The bike is starting great and running like a charm. A few people told me it looks nice. Nationwide Insurance takes up a few blocks in downtown Columbus. There are signs for Columbus Pride. I had a bath and changed to head uptown. Found a nice spot called The 3 Legged Mare. Then on to Wallstreet which is in a lane way. Pretty busy and good music.
Sunday 432 kms- really the same kms as day 1. (1/2 in OH and 1/2 in KY) Slept soundly until 9:00 am. Had breakfast at the hotel and was on the bike by 10:30 a.m. Headed due south on 104. Passed through Chillicothe which has maybe 10 jails with miles of wire fences and the town reflects this negativity. Just above Portsmouth I got 348 into Shawnee State Forest. That was a GREAT ride. Followed Ohio river to Aberdeen. Crossed the border to Kentucky at 3:00 at Maysville. Now Neil Diamond's song "Kentucky Woman" is stuck in my head. But only the chorus, can't remember the lyrics. On # 11 until #32 into Morehead. Stopped at a Ponderosa for a nice steak about 3:00. This is the top of Daniel Boone National Forest. Picked up #60 through the park until Owingsville. This town has the most interesting landscape. The hills are unusual shaped. One house had a small boat on its lawn with flowers spilling out from the hull. It was very creative. Kentucky really is as beautiful and lush as it shows in pictures. The air is moist. Some of the trees have ivy growing on them. There is a lovely pink bloom bush growing inbetween the trees. It was 92 degrees when I arrived in Lexington at 4:30. Stopped for directions at the Crowne Plaza Hotel - what good service ! Kentucky does not require a helmet - so I strapped mine onto the seat to get to my Four Points by Sheraton. The pool was full of kids so I showered and went back into town. Got pictures and had a libation at an Irish pub on the patio. The city really is still active on a Sunday night. Lots of people out, lots of patios and stores open. The city is very pretty. They even have cute bicycle racks. Got to watch some American television. Two cans of Heineken cost $4
Monday - 545 kms. Had breakfast at Cracker Barrel. Left Lexington by 9:30 and on the Interstate 75 until Richmond (a military city - I know where to drop off the ammunition) where I got the 421 which cuts through Daniel Boone National Park. Crossed over the Kentucky river. In Madison County I stop in Berea and unashamedly ask where the Bridges of Madison County were. The volunteer said she gets that question often. But the covered bridges were north or to the west and not on my route. In Ohio I came upon a covered bridge and got a picture. Later on in West Virginia I stopped at another covered bridge for a picture. Passed through London, KY where the Laurel cookie factory is. Made it to Corbin for a late lunch - the original Kentucy Fried Chicken ! The restaurant is also a museum. The Colonel was quite the entrepreneur. The reason he started selling his recipe in 1956 is the county was moving the highway out of Corbin. Crossed the border into Tennessee on #25 at Jellico. Coal Country. Right away there are mountains. If the Smokey mountains in the south are similar, it will be an exceptional state to ride. I stopped for a picture and jumped back on the bike - with the stand on. Made it to overdrive when I knew something was wrong. Luckily I was able to slowly move over and put the stand down angling to the right. There is no notice that you have crossed into Tennessee - which requires a helmet. At Knoxville I find myself on the Interstate - white knuckled ! So I don't stop but get onto the 129 into Maryville. Took a wrong turn - 35 kms out of my way when I stopped for a milkshake and directions. Got the 321which takes you through the top of the Smokey Mountains National Park. It was beautiful. Tall trees, nice road, little traffic on a Monday evening and good signs. A bike trail separate from the road makes me what to be on a bicycle. Got to Gatlinburg at 7:00. The city traffic was slow as molasses. It is a very flashy tourist town. But I liked it. Everything you want to do is there - mini golf, rides up the mountain, every kind of restaurant and sweet shop. Found the Rocky Waters Motor Inn. Showered, changed and made a bee line to the Hard Rock Cafe for a beverage. Nice couple sitting beside me from Indiana. Tomorrow the song "Indiana wants me" will play in my head. Everyone asks about my journey. They are surprised I am travelling alone. The likely gay bartender and I chat for my second beer..... In Tennessee you have to have current ID to buy beer at any age.
Tuesday -719 kms. Woke at 6:30 and had a swim in the pool. The water was warm at that hour. It was already in the 80's. I had breakfast at the Waffle House. At 8:30 I put the leather jacket on and had my wet bathing suit attached to my backpack to dry. Took the 441 cutting south through the Great Smokey Mountain National Park. This was an amazing ride - but NOT for the novice or faint of heart. The turns were constant, and if you took your eyes off the road for a moment.... not sure if they would ever find the body. It was also COLD up there at 3800 plus elevations. Was glad of the leather jacket. It was magnificient when you stopped at the lookouts. I only saw a small bit of the fog that is created when warm meets cold and the area is named for. It took some time as you were up and then down and then up another mountain. Now I am in North Carolina. The South. Through Cherokee - were you can buy mocassins. Stopped in Hot Springs (a train town from 1870) and got lunch at the Iron Horse which included Fried Green Tomatoes. Followed 19 to Maggie Valley where I headed north on 209. A sign read "Ride the Snake" and I have to say this ride would make you an excellent rider and perfect for this nimble Honda. Lots and lots of turns - sharp turns - can't see what is over the next hill or around the next turn. No shoulders so best be alert ! Almost no traffic -- I had a smile on my face most of the way. I picked up the Blue Ridge Parkway in the Pisgah Park. It is another great ride with more speed as you can see around the corner. At one point the road was curving and the pavement was banked which made a unusal turn. I saw a live turkey at the side of the road. There is a section of the road that looks like it is built on thin air. A marvel of engineering. Lots of lookout points as this mountain range is expansive. Spent most of this day above 3000 feet. At some point I passed the dividing line that separates north from south. A sign tells me I have entered Virginia. A bit further on I get stuck behind an old man in a van he clearly cannot operate. So I decide to get off the parkway to go north on a highway. Not a good decision. I ended up on Interstate 77 to Beckley, West Virginia. Which has brought me back west when I should have been heading east to Marlinton. It was dinner time and getting cold in this part of the state. Took me until 9:30 pm on the Interstate at 110 - 120 kms with tractor trailers all around me and when the sun went down I began to shiver. I checked into the second hotel I stopped at - first was a Hampton which is $149 + per night. Got a Comfort Inn for $85 + 12 % tax. But I could not have gone one more mile. Been on the bike for 13 hours ! ! Nevertheless I did walk up the street to Ruby Tuesdays for a snack and a brew - or two. Still couldn't get the knot out of my neck.
Wednesday - 706 kms. 8:30 am. Had to head back south 8 miles (which killed me to retrace those miles) onto Hwy 64. Just before White Sulphur Springs I got on the 219 North. I would be on this road for the rest of the day even into PA. I saw a small deer that didn't make it across the road. Stopped in Marlinton for gas. It was 10:00 am. I had a reservation in this town for last night. I am now in Pocahontas County. Travelled most of the Monongahela National Forest. There are "runaway truck ramps" in these mountain areas. Really ? trucks out of control ? Keep my eyes in the rear view mirror ! ! Logging trucks are travelling through here. So I pull over when possible and let them go. The byway goes from twisty turny mountain roads to highway and back again. I see Battlefield State Parks. Lots of violent history here. I pass the Kingsford coal factory. In the northern part of Virginia instead of driving around the mountains you drive through it. Big tunnels carved through a rather large mountain - it is amazing. I have now entered the panhandle of Maryland and will be in this state for a couple of hours. Enroute there was Frantz Family Farm. Stopped in Oakland, MA for gas and lunch. Standing there with my map, three guys come over to ask if I need help. They are Christian riders. I got good directions and was back on the road at 2:00. I stay on the 219 and hit Pennsylvania. This is a relief because I know from last years travel that PA is only 272 kms north to south. But I am still just driving - only stopping for gas. I have crossed the Mason-Dixon line. I do like PA. Roads are good and not too busy and towns not too big. Johnstown is the only sizable city I have to go through. A billboard reads "One man, one woman, this is marriage in PA" A stop in Northern Cambria for gas. Onto Dubois which is close to my destination. . Further north in Johnsonburg is Domtar. Ech - even at 6:30 pm there is unnatural fumes coming out of the smoke stack. Hurry out to #948 to #66 which takes me nicely into Kane. It is 6:30. 10 hours of riding today. At the gas station a guy gives me directions to Kane Manor. Find it easily and my key is waiting on the desk in the lobby. Typical routine: shower, change and head out. I seem to remember that helmets were an option - so I leave mine behind. The "beer" store can only sell cases, but I am told the pizza store will sell individual bottles. It is right next to Szymanski Bar - which closes at 8:00 pm on Wednesday. But I have time for a Blue Moon - I now know the tap beers. Back at my lovely and historic room it is very quiet. Turn on the TV but I am burned out and fall asleep before 9:00 pm. Slept 9 hours.
Thursday 450 kms- Time to go home. I am the first at breakfast at 7:30 am. The house has an interesting history and is full of antiques. The breakfast room looks out over the gardens. I am on the road at 9:00 am. Head to route 666 which is in the Allegheny Forest. This is a mountain range and at 9:00 am it is Cold. On this route for an hour and I saw a cougar. It passed in front of me on the road. I was nervous for a bit after that. Only 4 cars pass in the other direction. Take #62, where the Allegheny river is next to the road, into Warren which I remember from last year. The town has the most beautiful, large, historic houses. Not long I am at the New York border. On # 60 to Lake Erie A sign in Jonestown, NY says Lucielle Ball was born here. Pick up# 5 which is a Seaway Route. Reached Buffalo at 1:00 had to ride on a large bridge, then found Betty's downtown with a nice patio. Filled up with gas - only took $ 4.40 and was crossing the border by 2:30. QEW to Stoney Creek and then Lakeshore until Kipling in Toronto. It is 4:30 and rush hour and HOT. All these stupid people are driving and doing unstable things and I am yelling at them - good lord I can't take it. Rather be on an unknown interstate with 18 wheelers all around me than Toronto rush hour ! ! ! Home by 5:00 pm. Asleep by 9:00. Got to break this habit.
Look at this song by Serena Ryder - Motorcycle http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFH539Dl7oI&feature=related
